THE EXPERIENCE MIGHT BE BETTER THAN THE RESULTING PHOTOGRAPHS email@example.com
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The Vito Stats
Now almost two years ago I spent a few days in Stockholm, mainly to attend the 24h Fotomaraton. The day before the competition began I used a Voigtländer Vito B and four rolls of film to warm up my photography muscles. Three films were black and white ones but the fourth one was colour.
During the last roll I realized that the film wasn't winding properly so had some fears that the pictures wouldn't come out as I hoped. (I mention this here.) And in hindsight all three developed rolls suffer from double exposures of various kinds.
With that said I am really happy with the few usable pictures I got. Above is a cropped version of the first image in this post. The photos are proof that the Vito B has a very 'nifty fifty'. I. e. the lens is very good - at least in daylight situations at apertures 5,6 to 11 which was all I got during the day of the excursion.
I even got a spectacular view of the Old Town / Gamla Stan out of a double exposed picture as can be seen below.
Well, here's a Chaika 2M that I bought from Alex Helios via Instagram. It's a great full manual viewfinder half-frame camera. The wheel on the top is for shutter time selection, from B to 1/30th to 1/250th of a second. The square button on the front right of the camera is the release/exposure. The lens mounted on the camera in the picture is not the original Industar-69. The Chaika is a rare model compact camera since the prime lens is detachable. What is more is that it has M39 screw mount. But - like with the Paxette M39 system - you can't get focus with a lens from another M39 system. Unless you adapt the lens or - in this case - the camera (mount)! The Chaika mount is easily detached from the body by loosening four screws. If I want to mount the Leica thread mount M39 (LTM) lenses on the Chaika - which is my goal with this mod - I have to add 1.3mm to the mount. That is what is needed to change the camera's flange focal distance (FFD) from Chaika system to L
A Lomo Smena 8 camera with a faulty shutter. An Olympus Pen F camera. Part of a microscope adapter for the Pen. That's what I started out with. 45 minutes later I had a new lens! Mount The mount came off a microscope adapter. I got the adapter from my first (of two) attempts to buy an Olympus Pen F. There seem to be some unscrupolous ebay sellers around peddling useless Pens with microscope adapted prisms. Luckily - in hindsight - I got a microscope adapter with this first Pen. Which I now trashed when a Lomo Smena 8 without a future landed on my doorstep (figuratively speaking). Conversion / Havoc Smena I only knew the camera as a half-frame camera [Correction - it's a full frame camera!] called Smena 8 and hadn't thought to place it in Lomography-land until I read the name Lomo on the lens when it was already modded. Unwittingly I had tread the tiles of lomo-dom twice in as many weeks, also having put two rolls through a Praktica CX-1 which appears to be Gr
This is my Polaroll! A combinaton of Polaroid packfilm camera and rollfilm back. The background story of how I got this idea is in My Adventures in Packfilm Part 1 . Part 2 begins with a Polaroid Land 210 and a rollfilm back for an old large format camera. I will illustrate some of the process with this Polaroid Land 104, a model which is practically identical to the 210. 1, 2, 3, 4. The four steps to taking a photo with the Polaroid are molded into the controls. It is not a steady contraption. Battery door to the left, film door to the right. This is where you load your packfilm cassette, containing 10 exposures. The lens is a 144 mm f/8,8 lens. The battery required for the camera to work is a 3 volt. It is easy to convert the power to different 3 v sources. This one battery is a 3 v CR3 (?) with the wires just taped to the contacts with electricians's tape. The hinge and connection of the film door to the body.